Theoretical calculations of the cost of a house are one thing, but practice is another. Very often, the cost of building a house in theory is significantly different from how much it will cost in practice, if it is done by a person who has taken up the construction of his own house for the first time.

This happens due to ignorance of the subtleties and nuances, as well as from unscrupulous advertising with attractive prices. As a result, the estimated cost of building a house during construction increases several times. But since construction has begun, then there is nowhere to go, you have to pay.

To prevent this from happening, in this article we will give real prices (relevant for 2020), repeatedly tested in practice.

1st stage: Project

Building a house starts with a project. The cost of an individual project without any particular difficulties is 700-1000 rubles. per sq.m., i.e. project for 150 sq.m. will cost 100-150 tr. You can save a lot and buy a finished project, its price fluctuates around 30-40 tr, while you can make adjustments to it. There are so many ready-made solutions that you can easily choose the one you like and save a lot on the project.

For a house project of 150 sq.m. you will pay ~ 30 tr. (if you buy a finished project).

2nd stage: Foundation

Foundation arrangement. Based on the calculations in the project, as well as the state of the soil, a foundation is selected. Timber houses are light, so a pile-screw foundation is perfect for them. The main question that arises is which piles to choose (length, diameter, number and size of blades), these parameters depend on the soil in your area. In this matter, you will be helped by employees of the company who sell and install piles. The cost of one pile is 1-3 tr., with installation 3-5 tr. One pile can withstand from 1.5 to 2 tons.

Pile-screw foundation for a house made of timber 150 sq.m. will cost ~ 120-150 tr.

3rd stage: Box

Box made of profiled timber. To do this, you will have to buy a profiled timber, deliver it to the site, properly store it (so as not to deteriorate) and build a box. If you have never built a house before, it will be cheaper to hire specialists. The cost of the box, taking into account materials, delivery and construction, is 5000-6000 rubles. per sq.m. by gender.

House box 150 sq.m. will cost 750-825 tr.

4th stage: Roof

The cost of a roof can vary significantly, depending on the configuration, roofing material, thermal and hydro-noise insulation, gutters, cornices and other things. It is extremely difficult to give the correct price, but from experience we can say that the cost of a roof should be approximately 1000-1400 rubles per sq.m.

Roof for a house 150 sq.m. will cost 150-200 tr.

5th stage: Windows

Like a roof, the cost of glazing a house can vary significantly, depending on the material of the frames, double-glazed windows, fittings, etc. The average cost of a window is calculated at the rate of 5 tr. per sq.m. on glass. The window area in a 15-20 meter room is ~ 2.5 sq.m. The number of windows in the house is 150 sq.m. ~ 12-14.

The cost of glazing the house is 150 sq.m. – 150-200 tr.

6th stage: Doors

Prices for the front door start from 20 tr, interior doors with installation 8-12 tr, these will be turnkey economy class doors. The number of entrance doors is 2, interior doors will need 7-8 pieces.

The cost of all doors for the house is 150 sq.m. ~ 120-140 tr.

To summarize: 1 million 445 tr. 30 tr. (project) + 135 tr. (foundation) + 800 tr. (box) + 175 tr. (roof) + 175 tr. (windows) + 130 tr. (doors).

The price does not include finishing, electrical, plumbing, heating, ventilation.

Danish oil is a drying oil, meaning when used as a topcoat, it penetrates the wood fibers, repelling moisture and hardening it. Most oil finish jobs require periodic replenishment of the same oil to renew the protective properties of the finish while brightening it, leaving behind a clean, fresh look. With this use, danish oil becomes part of a regular cleaning and maintenance routine.

1. Remove any stains or residue from the wood with a washcloth and oil-based wood soap. Let them dry before starting work.

2. Wipe the wood with a cloth, removing dust and other dry residues.

3. Apply a layer of Danish oil to the wood with long, smooth strokes of the brush. Leave the oil overnight to soak in and dry, and inspect the wooden object. If you want an even cleaner and fresher look, apply a second coat.

If you live in a private home or your workplace is indoors, you will most likely need to get out of your car at least 4 times a day to open and close the gate. If there are other activities on the list of daily tasks – children’s groups, food shopping, hobbies, meeting friends or visiting clients, opening and closing the gate can become quite a laborious task.

It is also necessary to take into account weather conditions and the specifics of existing gates – heavy industrial gates, outdated mechanisms, strong gusts of wind or snow and icing in winter. All this can become an additional cause for concern and make unexpected changes to your plans.

Automation for gates entered the Russian market back in the 90s, and relatively recently gained really wide popularity. Today, more and more people prefer automatic gate systems, because they not only significantly improve the quality of life and comfort level, but also provide additional security and protection of the object.

Which gate automation to choose?

Gate automation is a safe, convenient, functional and reliable solution for accessing a garage space, which is suitable for installation at various facilities – in the yards of private houses, closed parking lots, garages, hangars, as well as industrial facilities. The market for gate automation is quite wide, but most often customers choose automation for swing gates and automation for sliding gates. Each gate system has its own advantages, therefore, when choosing the most suitable solution, it is necessary to evaluate the parameters of the gate (weight, type), intensity of use and area of ​​​​the access zone.

Sliding gates in small areas help to save money and use the roadway more efficiently, as the gate moves to the left or right along the inside of the fence. Swing gates require more space, but often this gate system is chosen for aesthetic reasons.

Regardless of the type of underfloor heating, this type of heating has a number of significant advantages over the traditional wall-mounted radiator system.

Radiators provide heat to a room by heating the air in the room, while underfloor heating systems transfer heat from a very large surface area that is only slightly warmer than the room itself. The floor surface is warmer, and the temperature and humidity level from floor to ceiling remains constant, which creates a more comfortable indoor environment.

Heated floors operate at low temperatures, resulting in significant energy savings.

As a result of the operation of the warm floor in the room, dust circulation is not formed.

The system is safe because there are no hot panels or hot edges in the room.

Given that there is no need to place heating elements in the room, there are more options for their installation and you can use the floor space in different ways.

The overall running costs for underfloor heating are also lower, and water-based underfloor heating can be combined with any type of heating – gas boiler, solid or liquid fuel systems. Underfloor heating is particularly suitable if a heat pump heating system is used.

According to European standards, the surface temperature of underfloor heating in residential premises should not exceed + 29C. This level of surface temperature ensures that the optimum temperature in the room itself reaches 20 – 21C. To achieve these temperatures, the liquid circulating in the pipes under the floor needs to be heated only up to + 35C. For comparison, a classic radiator system requires a water temperature of +65 to +80 C. So, heated floors allow you to save on energy costs.

It is possible to install the underfloor heating system into the walls, in this case the maximum surface temperature is + 50C, and such a wall already gives the effect of an oven. Such a system can be used where it is impossible to increase the height of the floor, for example, in historical, reconstructed houses.